Friday, May 23, 2008
Vaginal Discharge in Dogs
Causes
Vaginal discharge is a normal part of the heat cycle of the intact female dog. Bloody discharge occurs for several days when the bitch is in heat (in estrus).
Vaginal discharge is also a normal finding in the immediate postpartum (after birth) period.
A dark green to black discharge is often present for several days, and traces of discharge may persist for up to 3 weeks.
When the placental sites do not recede in the bitch after birth, then a persistent watery and sometimes bloody discharge may occur. This type of discharge is abnormal.
Any discharge that occurs during a pregnancy is potentially abnormal.
Urogenital tract infections, such as a urinary tract infection or an infected uterus (pyometra), may result in an opaque purulent discharge from the vulva.
Neoplasia (cancer) of the urogenital tract may cause bloody, mucousy or purulent vaginal discharge.
Vaginitis (inflammation of the vagina) may give rise to watery or mucousy discharge.
Coagulation (clotting) disorders that result in abnormal bleeding may produce a bloody discharge that can be difficult to distinguish from blood in the urine (hematuria).
Trauma or the presence of a foreign body in the vagina may result in bloody, watery or purulent discharge.
Urinary incontinence (inability to hold urine in the bladder) secondary to an abnormal location (ectopic) of the ureter, or a problem with the bladder sphincter (the muscle that acts like a valve at the opening of the bladder) may result in pooling of urine in the vagina and secondary irritation and discharge.
A defect and open communication (fistula) between the rectum and vagina may lead to the passage of watery fecal material from the vagina.
What to Watch For
Vaginal discharge of any type other than the normal stream of urine
Attracting male dogs
Excessive licking of the vagina
Scooting the bottom along the floor
Increased urination and/or straining to urinate
Difficulty defecating
Lethargy, fever, increased thirst
Diagnosis
It is important to obtain a complete medical history and to perform a thorough physical examination. Additional tests may include:
A complete blood count (CBC), biochemical profile, and urinalysis
A urine culture to rule out a bacterial urinary tract infection
Vaginal cytology
Culture of the vaginal discharge
Abdominal radiographs (X-ray) to assess the uterus and pelvis
Abdominal ultrasonography
Vaginoscopy, which is examination of the vagina through a rigid or flexible viewing scope
Cytology and biopsy of any abnormal tissue in the vagina
Serologic tests for brucellosis and herpesvirus
Intravenous dye study of the kidneys and ureters to identify any abnormalities in the location of the ureters
A coagulation profile if bloody discharge may be related to a clotting problem
Treatment
Vaginal discharges that are considered normal for the dog do not require treatment. In addition, mild vaginitis that is sometimes present in young puppies often resolves spontaneously once the dog is spayed or has passed through its first heat.Other causes of vaginal discharge are more serious and require specific therapy, depending upon the cause. Examples of such therapy include:
Surgical removal of an infected uterus, a vaginal foreign body, or a uterine or vaginal tumor
Surgical correction of any congenital defects of the ureters, the walls of the vagina or rectum
Antibiotics for urinary tract infections, bacterial vaginitis, and following trauma
Corrective therapy for any bleeding disorders
Chemotherapy for selected tumors of the vagina or external genitalia, e.g. transmissible venereal tumor, lymphosarcoma, transitional cell carcinoma
Avoidance of breeding the bitch while she has vaginal dischargeHome CareAdminister all prescribed medications as directed by your veterinarian. Observe your pet closely. If the clinical signs are not improving or are getting worse, contact your veterinarian at once.
Thursday, May 22, 2008
How to Bathe Your Dog
Again, it depends on your dog's lifestyle.
Too much bathing (such as once a week) will remove vital oils from your dog's coat, causing his skin to dry out. Unless your dog is especially dirty, regular grooming can reduce the number of bathes. It will also keep him looking and feeling fresh.
Getting Ready
Before you tackle your dog, you'll want to go through a pre-bath checklist. Prepare the bathing area out of your dog's presence. (There's no point in warning him ahead of time; he'll only get anxious.) Here are some items you'll want to have on hand:
A veterinarian-approved dog shampoo (People products are not recommended because they can cause allergic reactions.)
- Mineral oil and/or cotton balls
- Washcloth or sponge
- Towels (the bigger the dog, the more towels you'll need)
- A warm, draft-free area
- A bathing tether if you're bathing him in a tub. (If you're bathing him outside, a tether to a fixed point will do.)
- Brush and comb for his coat
- A soft brush for in between his toes and on his nails
- A rubber tub mat
Never wash your dog outside if the weather is cold. This is particularly true for puppies, who have trouble regulating their body temperatures. Puppies should be at least four weeks old before they receive their first bath.Before bathing, comb and brush out all mats. Otherwise, the water will turn the mats into solid masses, which will require clippers to remove. If your dog's hair is matted with paint, tar or some other sticky material, trim with clippers or soak the area with vegetable or mineral oil for 24 hours. (You may want to speak with a professional groomer if the tangles are difficult.)Now it's time to prep your dog. Put a drop of mineral oil in the eyes to protect them from suds. Some people use cotton balls in the ears. If you use cotton balls, make sure they're the right size for your dog's ears; if they're too small, they may slip down the ear canal.If you're using a tub, fill the water to the level of your dog's knees. The water should be about his temperature; around 102 degrees Fahrenheit.
The Bath
Bring your dog into the tub. If you have a bathing tether, attach one end to his collar and the suction cup to the bathtub. Ladle the warm water over him. If you use a spray, use it on low and hold it gently against his coat so the spraying action doesn't scare him. When he's thoroughly wet, apply the shampoo on his back and work it gently through the coat for about 10 minutes. Be careful not to get soap in his face or mouth. Use the washcloth or sponge to clean and rinse his face, and the soft brush to clean the paws, between toes and on nails.When you're ready to rinse, don't forget to drain the tub first. The rinsing cycle, by the way, is very important. You want to do it twice to make sure all the soap is rinsed off. (Leaving soap on the dog can cause an allergic reaction.) If you need to, drain the tub again so your dog isn't standing in water while he dries. Now, you'd better back up; your dog has been waiting to shake off the excess water since you began. Gently squeeze out excess water (don't forget to remove the cotton from his ears) and finish drying him with the towels. If you use a hair dryer, keep the heat and blow force on low. Remember to dry the ears with cotton balls to prevent infection.Keep your dog away from any drafts until his coat is completely dry.
Tick Infestation and Control in Dogs
Diagnosis
Diagnosis of tick parasitism is made by examining the skin for the presence of ticks.
Treatment
Ticks should be removed as soon as possible to minimize the amount of pathogen (disease producing organism) transmitted. To do this, grasp the tick close to the skin and pull gently, generally with tweezers, and never with your bare hand. Tick collars or products applied topically may act to prevent attachment of new ticks and to promote detachment of ticks already attached. Ticks may be killed by spraying, dipping, bathing, or powdering affected individuals with appropriate tick-killing products.
Home Care and Prevention
Administer prescribed or recommended products by your veterinarian. When manually removing an attached tick be careful not to handle the tick directly with bare hands. Use tweezers or commercial available tick removal devices.Control and prevention of ticks is extremely important. Tick avoidance requires avoiding environments that harbor ticks. In addition, since ticks can be carried unknowingly from one place to another on clothing, it is never impossible for an individual to be affected by a tick. Repellents, such as collars or products applied topically may be of great benefit in controlling/eliminating ticks.Removal of ticks, either manually or with the aid of baths, dips or sprays, may be necessary in pets that are heavily infested.
Sunday, May 18, 2008
Mealtime
Feed a high quality diet designed for puppies. A wide variety of diets and formulations are available and your veterinarian should be your primary source of information as to the best choice for your puppy. The amount fed will vary with the type of food and the individual dog, but in general, should only be as much as the puppy can consume in 5 to 10 minutes at a given meal. Puppies are usually fed 3 times daily when between 6 and 12 weeks old, 2 times daily when 12 weeks to 6 months old, and may be fed 1 or 2 times daily when older than 6 months. For certain large breeds of dogs, your veterinarian may recommend that several smaller meals be fed rather than 1 large meal (even when your dog becomes an adult) because an association has been suggested between the consumption of large meals and a serious medical condition called gastric dilatation/volvulus or "bloat."
Friday, May 16, 2008
Dystocia in Dogs
Dystocia is diagnosed based on the owner's observations. It is considered likely in the following scenarios:
30-60 minutes of strong contractions without delivering a puppy
Greater than 4-6 hours between puppies (and more puppies are in the uterus)
Failure to start delivery within 24 hours of the temperature dropping below 99ºF
Crying/licking the vulvar area excessively during whelping
Gestation lasting greater than 70 days from the first breeding or greater than 60 days from the first day of diestrus
http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=2&cat=1628&articleid=899
Care of the pregnant bitch
She should have been on a premium adult food prior to pregnancy and for the first few weeks of pregnancy. Starting the fourth or fifth week of pregnancy, begin adding a premium performance food or premium puppy food (do NOT use large breed puppy formulas, which are generally lower in protein, fat, and minerals) to her diet. Each week increase the amount of the performance or puppy food and decrease the amount of adult food, so when she is in her final week of pregnancy, she is on all performance/puppy food. Increase the frequency of the daily meals to three by mid pregnancy. She may need to eat small meals every 3-4 hours during the last week of the pregnancy as the puppies continue to take up more room. Remember, most fetal growth occurs in the last two weeks of gestation.
During the last week of pregnancy and the first 3-4 weeks of lactating, she may eat 2-4 times the amount she ate before pregnancy. As long as she is gaining a healthy amount of weight and not becoming obese, she should receive the food. The goal should be to have the bitch weigh the same at weaning as she weighed at breeding providing that this was an ideal weight for her.
If she has external parasites such as fleas or ear mites or internal parasites such as roundworms, discuss treatment options with your veterinarian. It is usually better to treat the mother before the puppies become exposed after birth.
With a few exceptions, (Drugs to Avoid in Pregnant and Nursing Dogs) one should avoid using all medications in pregnant and lactating (nursing) dogs. There may be instances in which a medication not recommended for use during pregnancy may need to be used to save the life of the bitch, even though it may potentially harm the fetuses. Always consult with your veterinarian before administering any drug or supplement to a pregnant or nursing dog.
http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=2&cat=1628&articleid=900
Wednesday, May 14, 2008
Dog Grooming
In general, dog breeds in India do not enjoy the kind of care that their counterparts in other parts of the world do. Concepts such as a dental floss for dogs may come as an absolute shock for some of us while these are accepted norms elsewhere.
Regular brushing, bathing, and nail care are essential. Protect your puppy's eyes and ears when bathing, and don't allow the puppy to become chilled after bathing. Your veterinarian may recommend that you do not bathe your puppy when it is younger than 10 to 12 weeks unless absolutely necessary (especially if your puppy is one of the smaller breeds).
Pet Stores in Chennai
044 28521413
Adyar Pet ShopShop No Gokul Shopping Arcote,Basement,#2,Near Adyar Signal, Sardar Patel Road, Chennai, 600025 044 24401790
Aqua Bay, Chennai (Online Pet Store) Villivakkam, Chennai, Tamil Nadu 600049
098 84978451
Aqua Paradise, Gandhi Nagar, Adyar, 63, 1st Main Road,, Chennai, Tamilnadu 600020
044 24453104
Classic Pet Products, No. 58/104, G.N. Chetty Street, T.Nagar, Chennai, Tamil Nadu 600017
09840654459
Dogs & Cats Pet Shop
No. 5, EMLEM Complex, Kodambakkam High Road, Nungambakkam, Chennai, Tamil Nadu 600034
044 64584455
Divya Pet Shop
No. 22/1, L.B. Road, Adyar, Chennai, Tamil Nadu 600020
09444140866
Lucky Pet World & Pet Clinic, No. 21, Dhandeeswaran Main Road, Velachery, Chennai, Tamil Nadu 600042
044 22434489
Pet Zone, New No. 27, Old No. 12, Thana Street, Purasaiwalkam, Chennai, Tamil Nadu 600007
044 26400426
Pet Zone, No. 109, Vepery High Road, Vepery, Chennai, Tamil Nadu 600007
044 42175350
Thursday, May 8, 2008
Deworming Schedule in Dogs
Initiate treatment at 2 weeks; repeat at 4, 6, and 8 weeks of age. For a puppy at increased risk, also treat at 10 and 12 weeks, and then monthly until the puppy is 6 months old. Thereafter, use a heartworm preventive medication that is also effective against hookworms and roundworms.
Nursing Dams
Treat concurrently with pups.
Adult Dogs
Treat regularly for prevention. Also monitor and eliminate parasites in pet's environment.
Newly Acquired Animals
Worm immediately, after 2 weeks, and then follow above recommendations.
Tuesday, May 6, 2008
Travelling with Pets by Air and Car
Air travel is of most concern to pet owners. You can minimize the chances of an unpleasant experience by following a few guidelines.
Federal regulations require that pets be at least 8 weeks old and weaned at least 5 days before flying. Generally, a health certificate (which is not more than 10 days old) must be available before pets will be permitted to fly. A valid rabies vaccination certificate will also be required.
Contact the airline well in advance for specific regulations and to secure your pet's reservation. Try to book a nonstop, midweek flight and avoid plane changes if possible. During warm weather periods choose early morning or late evening flights. In colder months, choose midday flights.
Arrive at the airport early, exercise your pet, personally place it in its crate, and pick up the animal promptly upon arrival. Do not take leashed animals on escalators.
Transport crates, available from most airlines or pet shops, must:
- Be large enough to allow the animal to stand (without touching the top of the cage), turn around, and lie down.
- Be strong and free of interior protrusions, with handle or grips.
- Have a leakproof bottom that is covered with plenty of absorbent material.
- Be purchased in advance so the pet can become acclimated to the crate prior to travel.
- Be appropriately and clearly labeled. Include your name, home address, home phone number, and destination contact information, as well as a designation of "Live Animals," with arrows indicating the crate's upright position.
- Be ventilated on opposite sides, with exterior rims and knobs so that airflow is not impeded.
Ask your veterinarian for specific feeding instructions. For your pet's comfort, air travel on an almost empty stomach is usually recommended. The age and size of your pet, time and distance of the flight, and your pet's regular dietary routine will be considered when feeding recommendations are made.
- The pets need to vaccinated.
- You need a certificate from the vet stating that these pets are fit to travel.
- The pets should be kept in an enclosed crate (cage) which should have enough space for the pets to stand and move around freely. My wife had brought crates for them long back for my pets to sleep in and therefore we had no troubles either locating a crate vendor or to get these crates. Please note that some airlines are finicky about metal crates and they don't allow. The vendor told me that Jet used to allow metal crates but no longer does - it requires extremely costly fiber glass crates. The crate weight would be added in the excess baggage weight.
- You need a absorbent material in the base of the crate.
- And finally you need to muzzle and sedate the pet. The sedations are available with most vets and are available as injections or tablets. Injections are much better as they are fool proof. The effect of sedation take about 30 mins. to take effect and last for about 4-5 hours provided the pets are not disturbed.
If your pet is not accustomed to car travel, take it for a few short rides before your trip. Cats should be confined to a cage or crate to allow them to feel secure and to avoid having a pet under your feet while driving.
Stick to your regular feeding routine and give the main meal at the end of the day or when you reach your destination. Feeding dry food will be more convenient, assuming your pet readily consumes it. Dispose of unused canned food unless it can be refrigerated. Take along a plastic jug of cold water in case other reliable water sources are not available. Give small portions of food and water and plan to stop every two hours for exercise. Remember to include a leash with your pet's traveling supplies.
Pets should not be allowed to ride with their heads outside car windows. Particles of dirt can enter the eyes, ears, and nose, causing injury or infection.
If you must leave your pet in a parked car, be sure to lock all doors, park in a shady area, and open windows wide enough to provide ventilation without enabling your pet to jump out or get its head caught. Be aware of weather conditions. You should not leave your pet in a parked car when the temperature and/or humidity are high or when temperatures are near or below freezing.
http://envfor.nic.in/legis/awbi/awbi07.pdf
http://envfor.nic.in/legis/awbi/awbi16.pdf
Monday, May 5, 2008
Pet Hospitals in Chennai
7 Akshaya Colony Mogappair-600050.
Animal Welfare Protection Trust
788 Kalaingar Karunanidhi St Santhoshaprm,Velacheri Tbm Rd-601302.
Arun Veterinary Clinic
9 Arcot Rd, Janaki Ngr-600087.
Auropet Clinic & Holiday Home
36/2, 100 Feet Rd-600042.
Ballo Multispeciality Pet Clinic
CIT Colony, 2nd Main Road, Mylapore, Chennai - 600004
Phone:24983030
Blue Cross Of India Hospitals & Shelters
135 Velachery Rd Guindy-600032.
Chennai Veterinary Hospitals & Shelters Pvt Ltd
7, 23rd Crs St Indira Ngr Adyar-600020.
Chezhian Pet Care Hospital,
2/698, Rangareddy Garden, Chinna Neelankarai, 600041
24491945, 24490051
Chris Kennels & Pet Care Centre
8, 1st Avenue Sundar Ngr Ekkatuthangal-600097.
Clinician
Poly Clinic TheVeterinary Hospital Rd Saidapet-600015.
24355116
Dist Veterinary Hospital
357 Anna Salai Nandanam-600035.
24352082
East Coast Pet Clinic
1/36, ECR, Kottivakkam, Chennai-41.
Ph: 24494716
http://ecpetclinic.com/
Easwari Pet Clinic Valsarawakkam-600087.
26530094
Jemimah Pet Clinic
40/4, Ramakrishna Complex
Porur -600116
9841791853
JP Pet Speciality Hospital
7 Teacher's Colony Adyar-600020.
24415393
Naveen Speciality Clinic
46 West Circular Rd R A Puram-600028.
24943164
People For Animals
114 Vepery High Road-600003.
26670793
Pets N Vets
38 C T T K Road Teynampet-600018.
24980969
Pets 'n' Vets
5, Malar Apartments, Chakrabani Road, Maduvankarai, Guindy, Chennai-32
22447137
Petzone
20, Bharathi Dasan Road, Near SIET College, Alwarpet,Chennai-600 018
Ph: 24356433
http://www.petzonealwarpet.com/
R G Pet & Vet Hospital & Shelters
371 Paneer Nagar, Mugappair-600058.
26359558
S P C A Madras
34 Vepery High Road-600007.
25321628
Sri Krishna Vet. Clinic
21 A/3 School View Rd R K Ngr R A Puram-600028.
24937199
Sriman Petclinic
15, IInd Street, Dr.Subrayan Nagar, Kodambakkam, 600024
24834571
Sumi Petclinic
211/7, T.H.Road, M.R.Nagar, Chennai-118
9841958309
Veekay's Pet Care Clinic
109 New Avadi Rd Kilpauk-600010.
26442412
Veekays Pet Care Clinic
89 Jawaharlal Nehru Road-600083.
24890506
Veekays Pet Care Clinic
50/13 Soundarya Colony, Anna Nagar-600040.
26155141
Veekays Pet Care Clinic
109/46 New Avadi Road-600010.
26442412
Madras Veterinary College Teaching Hospital
Vepery High Road-600007.
25369406
Veterinary Hospital
Vetenary Hospital Rd Saidapet-600015.
24352873
Veterinary Hospital
Arignar Anna Zoo Park Vandalur-600048.
22750151
Vignesh Pet Clinic
9/1, Jerret Garden, Casa Major Road, Near Don Bosco School, Egmore, 600008
28192953
Vijay Veterinary Clinic
Plot No 45 Y Block 196-600040.
26265965
Yadavi Kennels
17/12 Ramakrishna Street Nehru Nagar Near MIT Gate-600044.
22233421
Vaccination Schedule for Dogs
1.Canine Parvo virus/Corona virus Canine Distemper, Adeno virustype 2, Leptospira (or)DA2L+P as combined
Age at firstvaccination: 6-8 weeks
Age at secondvaccination: 8-10 weeks
2.Antirabies :
Age at firstvaccination: 12 weeks
Age at secondvaccination: 14 weeks
Repeat the doses annually as Booster
POST- BITE THERAPY FOR RABIES:
1st Dose On 0th day (the day of 1st injection after the dog bite)
2nd Dose 3rd day
3rd Dose 7th day
4th Dose 14th day
5th Dose 28th day
6th Booster Dose 90th day